When I decided to visit the Svalbard archipelago in the Arctic in June 2024 it was very much my husband’s bucket list destination and I went along for the ride, not really knowing what to expect. What I found was, and I think this sentence is used too frivolously at times, was life changing. I still find tears in my eyes when I watch back the travel video that our tour operator made for us. Please read on to find out why I felt like this and what I did during my time away in the beautiful landscape that is the polar North. This is a large topic covered so I have divided it up into more manageable, bite size pieces.
My husband has always wanted to see Polar bears in the wild – he couldn’t really explain why and sometimes that’s how things are. A feeling, a sensation, a drawing in you can’t explain but you just feel it deeply. We had the opportunity to go in June. I never turn down an option to travel (nor spending time with my husband) and with most things in marriage, sometimes there’s a compromise and you step up to do things to make another person happy (and boy I am glad I did).
Seeing Svalbard polar bears in the wild
Nature also doesn’t follow rules – there are approximately 3000 polar bears in Svalbard with about 300 residing year round. This is across 62,000 square kilometres. Spotting these bears would be hard work and a lot of luck. One passenger we shared the boat with had done the trip a previous 8 times with no joy. I have not done Antarctica (yet) and believe me it’s on my list but I am saving my pennies. I was reliably informed by fellow travelers that doing the Arctic first is better. In the Arctic the wildlife is there but needs time and effort spent on it. In Antarctica, it seems like everywhere you turn there is wildlife and if visited first it can affect expectations for the Arctic.
What to Pack for an Arctic Trip in June
I was apprehensive – we went in June, which can still be cold (highs of 2oC in June and maybe up to 5oC in July). Would I cope? I had previously had a less successful foray into snow sports a few years earlier (I ended up injured, that could be a whole other post) and rather than doing my usual decluttering post-disaster of a holiday (thank you to my husband), I kept all my gear that I had bought for it. As a result, I had all the base layers I needed, warm snow boots, outdoor wet weather gear, neck buffs, and waterproof gloves. This saved quite a lot of money rather than having to restock it all.
Choosing an Ethical Arctic Expedition Cruise
We did a lot of research into how best to visit the Arctic as sustainably and ethically as possible (I appreciate that may seem an oxymoron). We opted for an Arctic cruise with Hx expeditions who are part of, and were one of the founding members of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). They are “united in the commitment to safeguard the Arctic’s natural environment, wildlife, cultures and communities; AECO set out to establish a sustainable and responsible approach to tourism in the region”. They were originally known as Hurtigruten expeditions and were part of Hurtigruten who have been around since 1893 serving the coastline of Norway.
Hx Expeditions prides themselves on having experienced, knowledgeable expedition staff. On our cruise, we had people covering geology, history, and marine biology, to name a few. The safety aspects of travelling to this area can’t be underestimated. Polar bears are the largest land carnivores with no natural fear of humans. All the expedition staff were trained to use shotguns. This was of course, a last resort but much needed. There were always several designated polar bear lookouts while the other guides were leading and guiding the guests.
Follow on for my experience through the rest of our travels in the next 5 blog posts.